Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Pasang Lhamu Peak Expedition


The Government of Nepal renamed the Jasamba Himal in the Mahalangur Range as Pasang Lhamu Peak (7,351m) in the honor of Pasang Lhamu Sherpa who was the first Nepali woman to successfully climb the highest mountain (Mount Everest) in the world on April 22, 1993 A.D.
Also known as Jasamba, Cho Aui and Nagpai Gosum, Pasang Lhamu Chuli lies in the ridge six km west of Cho Oyu. In fact, the peak is the highest of three 7000m-peaks in the south-western ridge of Cho Oyu. It was first climbed by a Japanese team in 1986 A.D. via the northwest ridge.
Pasang Lhamu Peak was one of the peaks which were opened in 1995 for expedition. The standard route for climbing this peak is from the northwest ridge.
The trek starts from Lukla and via Namche Bazaar. Passing through several Himalayan villages and crossing the Nagpa La, we reach the base camp. The base camp lies on Sumna Glacier at an altitude of 5,400m. Advanced Base Camp is set up at 5,600m at the foot of West Ridge of Nagpa La. Two more camps will be set up as we climb higher. Camp I is set up at 6,250m just below the second Col. The climbing from Camp I requires difficult work of pitching of fixed ropes on knife-edged ridge. Camp II at 7,100m is further set up on the snow hump. Climbing up the steep snow ridge, we reach the summit of the snow pyramid. From the summit, close views of Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse and other high peaks can be seen. After the successful attempt, we retrace our path back to Lukla.
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Day to day itinerary:
  • Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.
  • Day 02: Kathmandu valley sightseeing & preparation for the climbing.
  • Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding.
  • Day 04: Trek to Namche.
  • Day 05: Acclimatization day at Namche.
  • Day 06: Trek to Thame.
  • Day 07: Trek to Arye.
  • Day 08: Trek to Lunak.
  • Day 09: Trek to Khajung.
  • Day 10: Trek to Base Camp.
  • Day 11 – 41: Climbing period.
  • Day 42: Back to Lunak.
  • Day 43: Trek to Thame.
  • Day 44: Trek to Namche.
  • Day 45: Trek to Lukla.
  • Day 46: Fly to Kathmandu.
  • Day 47: Free day in Kathmandu.
  • Day 48: Final Departure. Transfer to the airport.

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